How well do you know the ingredients in your makeup products?

Let's dive right into my unease. 

I'm a fan of organic, clean natural makeup & cosmetic brands. They offer a range of benefits for a healthy skin + are conscious of their environmental impact!

Key advantages of using natural cosmetic brands

No Harsh Chemicals | No Synthetic Fragrances | Nutrient-Rich | Eco-Friendly | Safer for Sensitive Skin | No Animal Testing

 

Here are some examples of plant-derived cosmetic fillers that may not be beneficial and even highly processed.

 

Cosmetic Formula Fillers - Pore Clogging

 

  1. Cornstarch: Often used in powders and dry shampoos to absorb oil, but it can clog pores and cause skin irritation.

  2. Cocoa Butter: Known for its rich texture, it can be comedogenic and clog pores.

  3. Wheat Germ Oil: High in vitamins but can be too rich and clog pores for some people.

  4. Soybean Oil: While it has some benefits, it can be highly processed and may contain residues of pesticides or GMOs, which can be problematic for some users.

  5. Palm Oil: Commonly used as a cheap filler, but it can be comedogenic (pore-clogging) and is associated with environmental concerns due to deforestation.

  6. Coconut Oil: Although it has moisturizing properties, it can be too heavy for some skin types and may cause breakouts.

These fillers are often used because they are cost-effective, but they may not always be the best choice for skin health.

 

 

Other Cosmetic Formula Fillers 

 

  1. Water: Often listed as "aqua," it's the most common filler in cosmetics (very cost-effective filler)

  2. Mineral Oil: A petroleum byproduct that can clog pores and doesn't provide any nutritional benefits to the skin.

  3. Petrolatum | Paraffin: Petroleum derivatives, commonly known as petroleum jelly, used to create a barrier on the skin. Some individuals may experience skin irritation or allergic reactions to paraffin. Petrolatum has a significant environmental footprint

  4. Silicones: Such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, which provide a smooth feel but can create a barrier that traps dirt and oil.

  5. Talc: Used in powders and makeup to absorb moisture and provide a smooth finish, but it has been controversial due to potential contamination with asbestos.

  6. Alcohol: Often used to help products dry quickly but can be drying and irritating to the skin.

  7. Synthetic Fragrances: Added to give products a pleasant smell but can cause irritation and allergic reactions.

  8. Parabens: While parabens are effective in preserving products, there are concerns about their potential health effects. Some studies suggest that parabens can mimic estrogen, a hormone that can be associated with the development of breast cancer. However, the evidence is not conclusive, and regulatory bodies like the FDA continue to monitor their safety.                          
  9. Phthalates: They are often added to plastics to increase flexibility, durability, and longevity. This makes them a cost-effective choice for manufacturers. However, their low cost comes with significant health and environmental concerns. Phthalates are known endocrine disruptors, which means they can interfere with the body's hormone systems, leading to various health issues.

Waxes in Cosmetics

 

Don't we all love or lip balms or lipsticks?

I certainly always have a lip product in my cosmetic bag with me and honestly those waxes give a beautiful smooth and protected feeling on the lips. 

I don't mind those waxes in my lip products, but I'm not sure if I want them in my face cream.

 

Beeswax: While it has moisturizing properties, it can be comedogenic for some skin types

Paraffin Wax: Often used in skincare and cosmetics, it can clog pores and cause breakouts

Lanolin Wax: Derived from sheep's wool, it can be highly comedogenic and clog pores

Carnauba Wax: Used in many cosmetic products for its glossy finish, but it can clog pores for some individuals

Candelilla Wax: Similar to carnauba wax, it can be comedogenic for certain skin types.

While some skin types can handle those waxes in their skincare routine, it's a different story for sensitive or acne-prone skin
but also keeping the pores wax free so the skin can breathe sounds like a better choice for my skin type. 

Cheap (Micro) Plastic Cosmetic Filler

Here are some common cosmetic ingredients that are plastic-based and can clog pores

  1. Polyethylene (PE): Often used in exfoliating scrubs and cleansers as microbeads. It has raised environmental concerns, particularly when used as microbeads, which contribute to plastic pollution

  2. Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA): Synthetic polymer used for its film-forming properties in skincare and makeup that can help to minimize the appearance of fine lines. It can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. It's not biodegradable, leading to long-term environmental impact.

  3. Acrylates Copolymer: Used as a thickening agent and film former in various skincare products. While Acrylates Copolymer is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, it is important to note that it is a type of microplastic, which raises environmental concerns due to its non-biodegradable nature

  4. Polyurethane: Found in some cosmetic products for its film-forming and texture-enhancing properties.  A type of plastic, polyurethane contributes to microplastic pollution, which is a concern for environmental health. It can cause skin irritation, especially if it contains residual diisocyanates, which are known to be irritants.

  5. Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA): While it is used for its film-forming properties, it can potentially clog pores and cause irritation.

  6. Polypropylene: This ingredient is primarily used to improve texture and doesn't offer skincare benefits, but it is not typically known to clog pores.

  7. Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): PEGs can be irritating to sensitive skin and, depending on their molecular weight, some forms can potentially clog pores.

These ingredients are often used because they are inexpensive and can enhance the performance of cosmetic products, but they can also contribute to environmental pollution and skin issues.

 

Common potential pore-clogging cosmetic ingredients

 

  1. Coconut Oil: While moisturizing, it can be too heavy for some skin types and may cause breakouts.

  2. Cocoa Butter: Cocoa butter is known for its rich moisturizing properties, but it has a high comedogenic rating of 4 out of 5, meaning it is likely to clog pores

  3. Isopropyl Myristate: Used to enhance product absorption, but it can clog pores. I use this substance to take off sfx prosthetics it really helps to soften the adhesive of the prosthetic piece without hurting the actor's skin. BUT I also always recommend washing off the face afterwards with warm water and a clean face wash product.

  4. Isopropyl Palmitate: Similar to isopropyl myristate, it can also clog pores.

  5. Myristyl Myristate: Used as an emollient, but it can be comedogenic.

  6. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): Found in cleansers and shampoos, it can be irritating and clog pores.

These ingredients are often used because they are effective in certain formulations, but they may not be suitable for everyone, especially those with acne-prone skin (A must do as a professional Makeup Artist is to ask always the client in advance if they have any cosmetic sensitivities or allergies!).

 

Tools that help you verify the safety and suitability of cosmetic ingredients.

You can use following apps to analyze cosmetic ingredients 
Online ingredient checker for free

Depending on your skin type or condition, a cosmetic ingredient can be beneficial, irritating, or sometimes have no effect at all.

 

Important Side Note: Tracking individual cosmetic ingredients can sometimes reveal that they are skin irritating (also natural plants or oils) when used in their raw form on your skin, which is rarely the case. Cosmetic products typically consist of a blend of various ingredients.
When using a cosmetic product with only one ingredient, it's crucial to verify its safety in its raw form.

 

Artificial dyes

The ‘lakes’ to avoid
 
Orange 5 Lake CI 45370 , Red 6 Lake CI 15850
Yellow 5 Lake CI 19140, 21 Lake CI 45380
Red 30 Lake CI 73360, Red 33 Lake CI 17200
Blue 1 Lake CI 42090, Red 7 CI 15850
 

While buying cosmetic, look out for those baddies

 

Resorcinol, Resorcin, 1,3- dihydroxybenzene (m-hydroxybenze, m-dihydroxy phenol), benzenedio - They help to remove hard, scaly, or roughened skin, is also used to treat acne, so not a recommended everyday ingredient for sensitive skin.

Carmine - Dye from insects... It's your decision if you like this on your skin.

Preservatives & Others - Talc, Triclosan, Lead, Carbon black, hexachlorophene, Sodium laureth sulfate, Polyethylene glycols (PEG) compounds, Triclosan, BHA, BHT, Petrolatum or petroleum jelly, Diethanolamine, or DEA, Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

Parabens - Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Heptylparaben

Ingredients like mica, oxides, ultramarines, and zinc stearate are considered to have low toxicity risks. Among these, mica is the most commonly used clean pigment.

Fragrances in Cosmetic

On label - Fragrance, Essential oil blend, Aroma, Benzophenone, BHA, BHT, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Butoxyethanol, Ethylbenzene - Those can cause irritation and allergies for some people. They also can disrupt the skin's barrier function, and some are even carcinogenic. 
(Phthalate free products are a good choice) 

As a makeup artist 

working almost 15 years with clients in the beauty industry, I've had countless conversations about their cosmetic routine, product expectations, concerns and disappointments

Top Topics 

Many people are concerned about their sensitivity to certain cosmetic products and some mentioned their makeup products makes them look older or some products don't do anything amazing that lets them stick to 1 product.

How do you feel about your current cosmetic products?

For a refreshed, natural & clean complexion I recommend following Makeup brands
For clean eyeshadows, eyepencil, bronzer and blushes I recommend bareMinerals, ILIA, HoneyBeeGardens Tarte, and Jones Road

My favorite Skincare brands

EvanHealy, MayLindstrom, MayaChia, SkyOrganics

Sensitivity around the eyes is also a big topic. 

Using ophthalmologist approved eyeliner or mascara helps - recommended brand pick is Clinique.  

My Personal Solution

 is to always check if a cosmetic formula is up to 90% full of clean, natural and most beneficial ingredients to my skin type / condition, especially if I plan to use this product every day.
If it doesn't meet this standard, it doesn't go into my shopping basket

Good news

You have the power to choose a product made of ingredients that align with your desired outcome, I believe it's crucial to share information and raise awareness that you can't always just depend on the marketing labeling on product packaging since every skin reacts differently to a cosmetic product.
Before going to bed, it's highly recommended to wash off all environmental pollution, dirt, and cosmetic residues from your face, that avoids congested pores which can lead to blemishes and other irritations.
*If a cosmetic product irritates your skin, discontinue using it. It's maybe not because the ingredient is bad, it may just don't work for your skin.

 

 

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